Ashes in the Light

One of my favourite days in Georgia began with a drive out of Tbilisi and into the countryside.

The city slowly gave way to quieter roads, cooler air, and rolling landscapes that felt very different from the streets we had been wandering over the previous few days.

Our first stop was Jvari Monastery.

Perched on a hill above Mtskheta, the monastery overlooks one of Georgia’s most famous views — the meeting point of the Aragvi and Mtkvari (Kura) rivers.

From above, you can clearly see the two rivers coming together below the monastery.

The Kura River itself stretches for more than 1,500 kilometres through the Caucasus before eventually flowing into the Caspian Sea.

Standing there, with a light breeze and the countryside spread out before us, it was easy to understand why this viewpoint is one of Georgia’s most photographed locations.

From Jvari, we continued on to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral.

As impressive as the architecture was, what stayed with me most was the history contained within its walls.

For centuries, the cathedral served as a burial place for Georgian kings, including George XII, the last king of Georgia.

What surprised me was that visitors were able to walk over parts of the tombstones.

In many churches and cathedrals I have visited elsewhere, the tombs are often protected or separated from visitors out of respect.

Our guide explained that, in Georgia, there is a belief that people continuing to walk through the cathedral is a sign that life and the country continue to move forward and flourish.

Whether history, tradition, or local interpretation, I found it a fascinating perspective.

Looking back, Mtskheta gave us two very different glimpses of Georgia.

The morning introduced us to its history.

Ancient monasteries.
Kings and cathedrals.
Stories that stretched back centuries.

The afternoon, however, would introduce us to something just as important.

Its hospitality.

Because while landmarks can tell you where a country has been, food often tells you who its people are.

And that was exactly what we were about to discover.

Armed with aprons, rolling pins, and perhaps a little too much confidence, we headed off to our Georgian cooking class.

As it turned out, becoming master chefs was slightly more challenging than we expected.

But that’s a story for the next entry. 😉

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