Ashes in the Light

Every country seems to have that one dish you end up associating with the trip long after you’ve returned home.

For Georgia, it was two.

Khinkali and Ojakhuri.

We were introduced to both on our very first evening in Tbilisi.

After checking into our hotel and getting some much-needed rest, we asked for recommendations on authentic Georgian food and found ourselves at a nearby restaurant.

That dinner became our first proper taste of Georgia.

And while both dishes stayed with me throughout the trip, khinkali was probably the one that intrigued me most.

For me, the easiest way to describe khinkali is that it’s a little like a Chinese xiao long bao — but much bigger.

Both are known for their broth-filled centres, but that’s where the similarities mostly end.

Xiao long bao is typically steamed, while khinkali is boiled in water and served with its distinctive twisted top.

The result feels heartier and more rustic, almost like a meal on its own rather than a dim sum dish.

Before the trip, we had watched countless videos explaining how to eat khinkali “properly”.

Pick it up by the top.
Take a small bite.
Sip the broth first.
Don’t eat the stem.

Simple enough in theory.

Somehow, it felt much harder when the dumpling was actually sitting in front of us.

There may have been a few failed attempts.

And possibly some escaped broth.

😂😂

But once we got past the learning curve, it was easy to understand why people loved them.

Warm.
Comforting.
Simple.

The kind of food that feels satisfying after a long day of walking.

Then there was Ojakuri.

A dish of potatoes and meat that doesn’t sound particularly remarkable when described on paper.

Yet somehow, it became one of my favourite things to order throughout the trip.

Perhaps because it felt so comforting.

Perhaps because it always seemed to arrive at exactly the right moment.

Or perhaps because good food doesn’t always need to be complicated.

As the days passed, we tried many other dishes.

Wine.
Cheese.
Bread.
Various Georgian specialties.

But somehow, we always found ourselves returning to khinkali and ojakuri.

They became familiar.

Reliable.

Comfort food in a country that was still new to us.

And by the end of the trip, they no longer felt like dishes we had discovered in Georgia.

They simply felt like part of Georgia itself.

Even now, when I think about Tbilisi, one of the first things that comes to mind isn’t a landmark or a view.

It’s a steaming basket of khinkali and a plate of ojakuri sitting on a table after a long day of exploring.

And honestly, that’s probably one of the highest compliments I can give any meal.

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