Ashes in the Light

After settling into Tbilisi the day before, it was finally time for our first proper day of exploration.

And naturally, our first stop was the Mother of Georgia.

Not because we had carefully planned it.

But because she was practically right behind our hotel.

Every time we stepped outside, we could see the statue watching over the city from above, making it difficult not to be curious.

Most visitors probably take the cable car up.

But since we were already staying nearby, it felt a little silly to walk downhill just to take a ride back up again.

So we did what made the most sense.

We walked.

The route was surprisingly quiet.

The paths were steep in parts, but the cooler weather and gentle breeze made it an enjoyable climb.

And honestly, some of the best views weren’t from the top at all.

They were along the way.

Every now and then, we’d stop for a moment and look back at the city unfolding beneath us.

The rooftops.
The winding streets.
The layers of old and new Tbilisi sitting side by side.

Eventually, we arrived at the Mother of Georgia.

Standing at around 20 metres tall, the statue has become one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks.

In one hand, she holds a bowl of wine to welcome friends.

In the other, she carries a sword to defend against enemies.

I thought that was quite a fitting symbol for Georgia itself — known both for its hospitality and its long history of resilience.

Surprisingly, it wasn’t very crowded during our visit.

Apart from a couple of tour groups, the area felt relatively peaceful.

Just behind the statue was the botanical garden, filled with greenery and flowers that added an unexpected softness to the surroundings.

The contrast between the towering statue and the gardens behind it made the area feel more relaxing than I expected.

From there, we continued on to Narikala Fortress.

Or at least, we tried to.

Unfortunately, parts of the fortress were closed for refurbishment during our visit, so we weren’t able to explore the site itself.

Still, standing around the area and looking out over the city was enough to appreciate why the fortress had occupied such an important position for centuries.

Afterwards, we took the cable car down into Old Tbilisi.

The ride itself was short, but it offered a different perspective of the city.

The rooftops appeared closer.

The river wound quietly below.

And suddenly the streets we had been looking down upon were right in front of us.

Back at ground level, we spent the rest of the day wandering through Old Tbilisi.

The area felt charming in a way that was difficult to explain.

The roads were narrow.

The buildings looked weathered.

There were steps everywhere.

And somehow, every street seemed to slope either up or down.

It felt older than Istanbul.

Less polished perhaps.

But full of character.

The kind of place where getting slightly lost felt like part of the experience.

Looking back, I don’t remember that day for any particular attraction.

What I remember most was the feeling of slowly discovering the city.

One street at a time.

One staircase at a time.

One view at a time.

And I think that was when Tbilisi really began to reveal itself to us.

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