Ashes in the Light

By this point in our trip, we had started settling into a different rhythm.

The urge to rush from attraction to attraction had mostly disappeared, replaced by something much simpler: curiosity.

So one morning, we made our way across to the Asian side of Istanbul (again) and spent part of the day exploring Kadıköy.

Compared to Sultanahmet, Kadıköy felt completely different.

The streets felt more local, more lived-in. There were fewer tourists, more residents going about their day, and a relaxed energy that made it easy to slow down.

One of the things I had wanted to see were the famous wall murals scattered around the neighbourhood.

And honestly, finding them became part of the fun.

Rather than being grouped neatly together, the murals were spread throughout the area, tucked between apartment buildings, side streets, cafés, and everyday life.

It turned what could have been a simple sightseeing stop into a bit of a treasure hunt.

Some of them were colourful and playful.

Others felt almost larger than life, stretching across entire buildings and transforming ordinary walls into something memorable.

What I liked most wasn’t necessarily the artwork itself, but the way it blended into the neighbourhood.

People walked past carrying groceries.
Friends sat outside cafés chatting.
Shopkeepers opened their doors for the day.

And right in the middle of it all were these enormous pieces of art quietly becoming part of everyday life.

We spent the afternoon wandering aimlessly, occasionally checking our map, occasionally getting distracted by something else entirely.

A bakery here.
A side street there.
A cat sleeping in the shade.

There was no real rush.

And I think that’s what made Kadıköy so enjoyable.

It wasn’t trying to impress us.

It wasn’t asking to be ticked off a list.

It simply existed as it was — colourful, creative, and comfortable in its own identity.

By the time we made our way back, I realised that some of my favourite parts of Istanbul weren’t the famous landmarks at all.

Sometimes, they were neighbourhoods like this.

The kind that reveal themselves slowly if you’re willing to wander without a plan.

And maybe that’s why Kadıköy stayed with me.

Not because of one particular mural or one specific street, but because it reminded me that some places are best experienced by simply walking through them.